Commuting along, over, under, and across Bangkok's Charoen Krung Road, you may not be aware of the fascinating history of this road and surrounding streets. Running almost parallel to the Chao Phraya River, for over 8 kilometres, the road travels through several districts from Phra Nakhon to Yan Nawa.
Back in the Day
In 1861, European settlers petitioned King Rama IV regarding the lack of decent roads in the area, claiming outdoor activities hindered the use of horse-drawn carriages and horse riding and the lack of fresh air and exercise was causing illnesses.
The King considered the small overgrown alleys and larger unruly, dirty pathways, comparing them to other countries' more orderly and tidy roads, and ordered the construction of a new road system. Charoen Krung Road became the first paved road in Bangkok, officially opening in 1864.
It was the main commercial district, remaining that way for nearly a century but reducing in importance as the city spread eastwards. A horse-drawn tram service operated from 1888, becoming electric in 1894 and eventually closing in 1963.
Nowadays… Where Does it Go?
Travelling the entire length of the road sees a mix of old shophouses, modern buildings, soaring residential towers, shopping malls, eateries, markets and gentrification in several pockets bringing creative and fresh life to tired areas.
The road starts at Sanam Chai Road in Phra Nakhon, with Wat Pho and Saranrom Palace Park on opposite corners. Crossing at Khlong Ong Ang, it continues in a southerly direction. In 2019, the MRT Blue Line running under Charoen Krung was completed, and Sam Yot and Mangkon stations opened, providing welcome relief to this heavily congested traffic zone.
Passing through bustling Chinatown, it meets Yaowarat Road at Odeon Circle and Chinatown Gate, and the famous Wat Traimit Wittayaram is close by. The road continues through Talat Noi, part of Samphanthawong District with its burgeoning cafe, art space and museum scene.
Across the canal, the road enters Bang Rak District, the former European quarter. This area has been revitalized in the last decade, now dubbed the Charoenkrung Creative District. It has many historic buildings, creative arts, and great cafe culture.
Another important landmark is the BTS Saphan Taksin, a transport hub for ferries and trains. Next, the road enters Sathon District and on to Bang Kho Laem District, a more residential area. There are several swanky hotels and residences in these two districts, plus Shrewsbury International School and Asiatique. Finally, the road terminates under Rama III Bridge.
Where to Visit
If you were to explore this whole road and alleys and sois leading off, it would take weeks or even months.
Phra Nakhon
Rattanakosin Island is the birthplace of modern-day Bangkok and home to some of the most visited attractions in Thailand, including The Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew and many other historic sites.
Chinatown
Bangkok's Chinatown is one of the world's largest, with a sea of red and gold, markets and shops, colourful shrines and temples, bustling streets, delicious street foods and renowned restaurants, and a vibrant and beckoning atmosphere day and night. This article about Chinatown provides an overview of the Thai-Chinese heritage and attractions in the area.
Talat Noi
Sieng Kong, often called Talat Noi, is a subdistrict in Samphanthawong, to the south of Chinatown Gate and best explored on foot. Photographers love the old shophouses piled high with spare car parts and chains.
Cafes, restaurants and guesthouses have been established in restored and renovated buildings like Hong Sieng Kong on one rai of riverfront land, the Photohostel & Photocafe in the 200-year-old Taiyuan building, the River View Guesthouse with rooftop dining and Baan Rim Naam with a gritty hip music and food scene, to name a few. Mother Roaster has the spare parts downstairs and a trendy coffee bar upstairs. Family-owned and run eateries and stalls along the streets offer delicious snacks and meals.
Street art is throughout, with San Chao Rong Kueak Alley near Mother Roaster being very popular. Colourful shrines and temples like Chow Sue Kong Shrine, built in 1804, are worth seeking out. Further south is Siam Commercial Bank, built in 1908 and still operating, and the Holy Rosary Church, rebuilt in 1897 following a fire.
Rivercity Bangkok, beside Si Phraya River Pier, is a lifestyle centre for arts and antiques with galleries, exhibitions, shows and trendy stores with unique pieces. The riverside dining and live music provide a contemporary happening ambience.
Bang Rak
Portuguese, French, British and Danish expats settled in this area in the second half of the 19th century, and some embassies remain today.
More recently, it has become known as the Charoenkrung Creative District, with the Thailand Creative & Design Center located at the Grand Postal Building. Other attractions include ATT 19, a 120-year-old school turned into an art hub fusing art design, fashion and food. Warehouse 30 is a contemporary complex for shopping, while at Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok is ART Space by MOCA, with changing exhibitions. Keep an eye out for street art, especially in Soi Charoen Krung 32.
Some swanky luxury hotels are perched riverside, and restaurants like Japanese Hanaya 1976, established pre World War II, Prachak Roast Duck roasting for more than a century and the famous pork knuckle joint, Kha-Moo Trok Soong opposite Robinson's mall.
Asiatique The Riverfront, with loads of dining, entertainment and shopping, is a drawcard south of BTS Saphan Taksin.
Moving to Bangkok?
If you are moving to Bangkok and thinking of living in the Charoen Krung area, most condos for sale and rent are in Sathon, Bang Rak, and to a lesser extent, Bang Kho Laem.
Sathon is a business district with skyscrapers hosting Thai and multinational businesses and upmarket condominiums. In hand with this more leafy Bangkok district are upscale restaurants, cocktail bars, nightclubs and shopping. Sathon Pier, serviced by Chao Phraya Riverboats, adjoins BTS Saphan Taksin.
Bang Rak presents some excellent projects, albeit further from Charoen Krung Road and closer to the BTS Silom Line. The newly completed The Nest Chula-Samyan offers economical housing, and Tait 12 is due for completion in 2023. Looking for super-luxe? The Ritz-Carlton Residences Bangkok at King Power Mahanakhon may tick every box.
In Bang Kho Laem, our more popular projects are Rhythm Charoenkrung Pavilion beside Shrewsbury International School and Altitude Symphony Charoenkrung, catering to families.